Publié le par pineappleknotstutorials







                                        ~ Little Lump Knots ~
Hello Knot Tyers! ...I have received many requests to put the instructions for the Little Lump Knot on the internet. I have decided to attempt to give it a try!! It took me a year to learn to make this knot and another several years to get it right! I hope these instructions will help you to learn to make this first-rate little knot!!!





...almost any first-rate cord will do to make a Little Lump Knot! You can make the LLK out of many sizes of cord. Here are some of the cords I use:
Hard-laid cotton (#36, #48, #72)
3mm paracord
2mm Marlow
Tarred Seine Line
Bonded Seine Twine
1/16" and 3/32" Yale
...soft cords do not work too well to make the LLK.






...not much hardware is needed to make the Little Lump Knot!!!...just a "thimble/keyring/bead"...(I put the brass bead on just to make the key fob look a little nicer.)






Tools don't need too many tools to make the LLK!:
A.) short scraps of cord (for making constrictor knots)
B.) cord!!
C.) "Japanese Marlinespike"
D.) dental floss (waxed)
E.) some type of measuring tape
F.) "self-threading" needles
G.) "thimbles/keyrings/beads"
H.) scissors (large/small)
I.) BIC lighter
J.) notebook (most important!!)
...most of these tools are readily available, but some are "hard-to-find"...I can get some of these items if you can't find them.






Diagram 1
(using 3mm paracord) start the knot, you will need to cut some cord!:
A.) 1 @ 40"
B.) 3 @ 16"
C.) 6 @ 45" will have to melt a "taper" on the 40" and 45" cords to use with the "self-threading" needles. (the 3-16" cords just need to have their tips melted a bit to keep from fraying)...(I have measured these cords a few inches long and when you make your knot, keep a record of the lengths in your notebook!)...






Diagram 2
...these are "self-threading" needles and they work excellent with cords that will melt. I simply melt the ends with a BIC lighter and after letting the melted nylon cool a few seconds I use my fingers to twist a "taper" on the ends...(*I count to three and then put the taper on...I do not burn my fingers while doing this!!...if you burn your fingers, count to four(or five!) before twisting the taper!!)..the process of putting a taper on the end of the 3mm paracord takes just a second and if done properly, you can change cords simply by twisting the needle on and off.






Diagram 3
...using the 1-40" cord and the 3-16" cords find the "center" (as shown)...using a short piece of small scrap cord, make a "constrictor knot" a few inches from the centered cords. (as a knot tyer you will be using the "constrictor knot" constantly!...the instructions for this most useful knot is in almost every knot book!)






Diagram 4
...braid what is called "4-strand plait"...this is a very simple braid that is in most knot books. Make sure the braid is "tensioned" properly so as to look nice!!...the "4-strand plait" will lay naturally in the thimble!!






Diagram 5
...after completing the "4-strand plait", use the dental floss and put on enough half-hitches at the base of the thimble to secure the plait. The dental floss is only temporary and will be removed later.






Diagram 6
...after you have secured the "4-strand plait" with the dental floss, remove the constrictor knots and "comb" the plait out to the dental floss. ( this point, the dental floss may get a little loose, so it doesn't hurt to put a few more half-hitches on!! (...make sure that the half-hitches are secure!! don't want them to be loose!)






Diagram 7
...this is the "core" of the knot...this is how it should look!!






Diagram 8 this point you will add the 6-45" cords...lay them symmetrically around the "core" and make a constrictor knot directly over the dental floss. Make the constrictor knot 17" from the ends. (as shown)






Diagram 9
At this point you will be making a "6-strand complex crown plait" (over 2)...keep in mind that there are probably dozens of plaits/braids that you can use for this part of the knot!!...however, some plaits/braids do not allow for the Matthew Walker Knot, which I use on this knot! I make 7 crowns (I remove the constrictor knot after 3 or 4 crowns) and then I add the Matthew Walker Knot...(the LLK can be used for many applications and for making a bell rope for instance, you would use as many crowns as needed!!) this point "tensioning" is very important and it has been said that "tensioning" is the most important part of fancy knot tying!...the "complex crown plait" is great for tensioning as the "over 2" scheme enables you to "lock in" the plait so it will not "loosen up" on you!! (some plaits will not "lock in"!!)






Diagram 10
Now you make the (6-strand) Matthew Walker Knot...make it so that the "gap" between the MWK and the crown plait is as small as possible! will not be able to get it perfect, but get the "gap" as small as you can!...later there is a little trick to make the "gap" disappear all together!! always, make sure the Matthew Walker Knot is tensioned properly!






Diagram 11 you will make a "crown knot" (over 1) on top of the MWK.






Diagram 12
...this is a side view of Diagram 11...






Diagram 13 you make a second "crown knot" (over 1)...






Diagram 14
...this is a side view of Diagram 13...*the purpose of these 2 crown knots is to place the Little Lump Knot correctly on the Matthew Walker Knot...
~ Important Note ~
...on 3mm paracord and almost all cords 2 crown knots are needed to correctly place the Little Lump Knot...but on "hard-laid cotton", only 1 crown knot is used!!!






Diagram 15 that the 2 crown knots have been added, you will now add the 2-40" cords (X-X)to the 6-45" cords...the Little Lump Knot shown is an 8-strand knot and you have to add 2 more strands to the 6 cords that you have been using so far to make the "complex crown plait/MWK/2 crown knots"...{*the LLK can be made with 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, etc. strands!!!)...the 2-40" strands are added at 180º...with 3 strands on one side and 3 strands on the other side. Note that up until these 2-40" cords are added, the "complex crown plait/MWK/2 crown knots" are not secure on the "core"!...adding the 2-40" cords will "lock in" the knot...(still a couple of more steps to completely "lock in" the knot.)






Diagram 16 adding the 2-40" cords, you will make a "double crown knot"...






Diagram 17
...this is a side view of Diagram 16 after you have made the 8-strand "double crown knot" (by adding the 2-40" strands to the 6-45" strands.)






Diagram 18 you will add another "double crown knot".






Diagram 19
...this is a side view of Diagram 18 after adding the second "double crown knot"...note that tensioning is very important at this point, and the knot should be as tight as possible.






Diagram 20 that you have made the 2 "double crown knots" and tightened them to the point that they are "locked in", you will cut the 6 short cords approximately 1/16"(+-) from the end of the knot.






Diagram 21 use the BIC lighter and melt the 6 short cords making them flush with the end of the knot.






Diagram 22 make a "double wall knot".






Diagram 23
...this is another view of the knot after the ends have been melted and you have make the "double wall knot". Now we stop with the "LLK" end of the knot and turn the knot around and finish off the "Footrope Knot" end. We will return to the "LLK" end shortly and finish it off!! Note that the knot is "rock solid" at this point!...






Diagram 24 this point we will get rid of the "gap" between the MWK and the "complex crown plait" (X)...since the "core" is now "locked in" it is easy to get rid of the "gap"!!...use the "japanese marlinespike" and using the principle of the "marlinespike hitch" put the spike in the thimble to get a grip and pull the 6 strands toward the "LLK" will "watch in amazement" as the "gap" disappears!!!!...(now you know how I do it!!)






Diagram 25
...notice that after you have pulled the cords toward the "LLK end" you have pulled approximately 1/2"-3/4" back from the thimble...this should expose most of the dental floss, and you should be able to easily cut the dental floss out of the knot!...(or if you prefer, you can simply leave the dental floss on!?!!)






Diagram 26
...making sure the "complex crown plait" is properly tensioned, continue the plait toward the thimble end. You will stop approximately 1/3 the way up the thimble. (It should be noted here that if you stop too early, the knot will not look good at all!!...and if you plait further than approximately 1/3 of the way up, the knot will also not look very good!! it is up to you as a knot tyer(!) to figure out exactly where to stop plaiting!!!...I have no exact way to explain where to stop, so I am leaving this up to you to use your best judgement!!! have put a lot of work into this knot so far, and you want the knot to look as nice as possible!!!)






Diagram 27
~ "The Footrope Knot" ~ make a "wall knot" and let it hang down the knot approximately 3/4"(+-).






Diagram 28
...continue by going "over one, under one" back towards the end of the knot. Notice that the knot is "fairly tight" and more importantly it is symmetrical.






Diagram 29 make a crown knot. Notice that after making the crown knot each working end will fall "under" it's "pair". The rest is easy, as each cord will simply follow it's "pair" to the "end".






Diagram 30
...using the "self-threading" needle, take each cord and "follow the pair" to the "end" and at that point, each cord will go through the Footrope Knot and come out at the bottom.






Diagram 31 is the finished Footrope Knot before it is "tensioned". To tension the knot, use the "japanese marlinespike". I put a simple overhand knot in one of the cords to keep my place. I go through this knot twice with the japanese marlinespike. First, I tension all the cords at once. The second tensioning I work with each cord singly. If you do the tensioning "in order", the knot will be quickly tensioned and look perfectly symmetrical!






Diagram 32 is the Footrope Knot after it has been tensioned.






Diagram 33
Snip the ends as close as possible to the knot and use the japanese marlinespike to push them back under the Footrope Knot. (A pair of "fly-tying" scissors works perfectly for this!)






Diagram 34
~ "Finishing off the Little Lump Knot (finally)!!! ~ that you are done with the Footrope Knot, turn the knot over and begin finishing off the Little Lump Knot by making a wall knot and letting it drop down the knot approximately 3/4"(+-). "~~YES, the LLK is simply a Footrope Knot with a "cap"!!!"






Diagram 35 it is simply "over one, under one" back to the top exactly as you did making the Footrope Knot on the other end! If you keep the knot "fairly" tight and more importantly symmetrical at this point it will make it that much easier later to tension the knot!!!






Diagram 36 we come to the easy part!!!...I know it looks kind of confusing with those 8 stands going every which way, but we will actually be using 4 strands at a time, so it's not too hard to finish this knot off!!!...if you notice, I have marked 3 things to take notice at this point:
X: there are 4 "pairs"
G: there are 4 "gaps"
Z: there are 8 strands, but we will start out by getting 4 of them out of the way at once!!
...using only the "Z"'s, make a 4 strand crown knot making sure that the Z's fall into the "gap" (G)...







 Diagram 37 will look like this! Note that these 4 cords will fall "under" it's "pair"







Diagram 38 make things less confusing, I tuck each of these 4 cords "under" it's first "encounter" (following it's "pair")...(*just one tuck, and we will finish these 4 cords off later.) I have used a constrictor knot here to avoid confusion, but while actually making the knot, I simply hold these 4 cords out of the way with my hand while working with the other 4 cords!...even after making hundreds of these knots I still tuck the 4 cords simply to make things less confusing!!!









Diagram 39 that the first 4 cords have made the crown knot and are tucked out of the way, we will now only be working with 2 cords!....use only the 2 cords that are going towards you and going away from you (forget about the 2 cords that are to the left and right for now)....start with the cord that is going toward you (using the self-threading needle) and begin weaving it into the crown knot made by the first 4 cords....notice that it will enter the crown knot to the left going "under"....and then "over" and then it will go to the right of the cord that is going away from you...continue to pull this cord through but leave a little "loop" in the (first) cord that will allow the far cord to go in...(explained in Diagram 40).....






Diagram 40 the far cord goes "over" the first cord..."under" the next cord...then "over"the next cord....then "under" the first cord (the little loop you left!)....






Diagram 41
...the first 2 cords are now finished (for now!) and your knot should look like this!...continue by turning the knot 90º and you are ready to tackle the final 2 cords!






Diagram 42 will now notice that there are 4 cords in the middle to weave the 2 final cords into!!...but it's easy, as the "over, under" pattern is exactly the same (except there are 4 cords instead of 2!!)....simply take the cord that is facing you and go "under", "over", "under", "over"...and then to the right of the far cord...






Diagram 43
...and finally coming back with the far cord, the weave goes: "over" the first cord...then "under", "over", "under", "over"...then "under" the first cord (again, "through" the little loop you left!)...






Diagram 44
...this is how the top of the knot should look! the rest is easy, as there is nothing to do but to double each cord and each cord will simply lay alongside it's "pair" to the "end" of the knot! NOTICE that while making the crown knot with the "first" 4 cords that each cord fell "under" it's "pair"...on these 4 cords that have finished the "cap", each cord will come out "over" it's "pair"!!...I finish off the "over" cords first then finish off the "first" 4 "under" cords! There is nothing hard about this! can't get lost because each cord will simply follow it's "pair" to the "end", where the cord will be tucked through the knot.






Diagram 45
...notice how each of the 4 "cap" cords come out "over" it's "pair"!!!...finish off each of these 4 cords by simply following it's "pair"...(using the "self-threading" needle).






Diagram 46
...the 4 "cap" cords are now finish off the 4 "first" cords...they will follow "under" their "pairs" to the "end" where they will be tucked through the knot!






Diagram 47 are now finished with the LLK!!! you will "tension" the knot using the japanese marlinespike...I will give some tips on tensioning the LLK in my synopsis at the end of this lesson!!!






Diagram 48 is the knot after it has been tensioned and with the ends snipped as close as possible to the knot...use the japanese marlinespike to push the ends back under the knot!






Diagram 49
You are now finished with the "Little Lump Knot"!!!!
...(the shell is called a "MARLINSPIKE"!!! and you may find one on eBay !!)...




~ Tips ~

In making fancy knots, the best advice I can give is to join the International Guild of Knot Tyers and to attend their meetings! There is no better way to learn about knots than by watching these great knot tyers in person!
Most of your knot tying time will be spent "tensioning", and this is the most important part of making fancy knots, as this is how you will make the knots look "nice and proper"!! You will also be spending a lot of time making "plaits/braids". There are dozens of variations of these and I hope you experiment with them! (Please send me photos!!!). In tensioning, you will find that this takes some time to learn, but it's not that hard! I use "leverage" to do a lot of my tensioning. I also use the "japanese marlinespike" to do most of the work when possible. The Footrope Knot is tensioned completely with the japanese marlinspike, and the Little Lump Knot is also tensioned completely with the japanese marlinespike! I tension both of these knots "in order"...with the Footrope Knot, I do all of the strands at once on the first tensioning, and then on the second tensioning I do each strand singly. On the LLK, I also do the tensioning "in order". You will notice that on the LLK, there are "only 2 cords!": the "overs" and the "unders"!!. I first tension the "overs" and then the "unders" (using the japanese marlinespike to do all the work!)...
Learning how to properly tension knots takes a little time and practice, but as a knot tyer this is just something that is necessary!. I didn't give the instructions for some the knots involved in making the Little Lump Knot (crown knots, double crown knots, complex crown knots, wall knots, double wall knots, Matthew Walker Knot, etc.)...these are knots that as a knot tyer you should know and there are better instructions for these knots elsewhere. There are so many variations/combinations of these knots I couldn't put the instructions on for all of them. These are "basic knots" that all fancy knot tyers should know!
Another important thing to know about fancy knots is that some knots are made "clockwise" and some are made "counter-clockwise". This is important because some books will show you how to make a knot in the author's own particular version. If you aren't aware that the same knot can be made clockwise when the instructions are shown as counter-clockwise, this can become quite confusing!!. Keep this in mind when reading knot books!


Publié dans Dan's tutorials

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